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This column first appeared in Valerie Monroe’s Newsletter. How to keep your face cleanavailable to subscribe on Substack.
Dear readers, I will answer your question, but I want to share a relevant scenario with you. A dear friend recently mentioned a new skin miracle drug that is widely available in Europe but not FDA approved in the United States. My friend was curious because people she met raved about it. My friend is a little younger than I am. She has porcelain skin without any noticeable wrinkles or tan lines. In other words, she has enviable skin. The woman who introduced my friend to this unwanted new skin miracle said my friend got it injected at a spa or medi-spa or some other place that is not a doctor’s office. Because, you know, it’s illegal.
What is it? Profhilo is a liquid form of hyaluronic acid that hydrates skin cells in layers deeper than topical moisturizers can reach. As you may know, this is different from hyaluronic acid fillers, which crosslink (basically) bind different sized molecules together to create volume. Profhilo, on the other hand, is thin and dispersed throughout the dermis, moisturizing without adding volume.
Anyway, I looked up where Profilo injections are supposedly being given. I couldn’t find any specific mention of it, at least on websites. Still, I hope my friend is cautious, as I implored her to. Not long after her text, I received an email from a reader about another form of hyaluronic acid being touted as a skin miracle. Do miracles last forever? Apparently not in the beauty world. Now onto the reader questions:
question: Val, it seems like every podcast I listen to is introducing some new fancy supplement that’s going to cure all my skin woes. I’m naturally a skeptic (and sometimes a cynic) so I view every “clinical evidence says…” with a bit of skepticism. And yet…the latest addition is Ritual’s hyaluronic acid supplement, which promises to heal skin from the inside out. Are there benefits to any of it? Should I just stick to topicals? I’m 52.
answer: Attention HNTFUYFs: This reader is exemplary! What an incredible thing about her undeniably practical mindset!
I am becoming a bit skeptical when it comes to supplements. However, I take calcium/magnesium, vitamin D, and zinc, so I am not completely immune to supplements. Reliable studies have shown the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid tablets, how If it works, you might consider adding it to a small cache.
So I asked HNTFUYF DermDiva, Heidi Waldorf, MDwhat was she thinking?
The good news is, “Most supplements aimed at improving skin health with peptides or antioxidants are safe,” Waldorf says, but the bad news is, “There are small studies on the individual active ingredients. [including hyaluronic acid] It has shown some effectiveness. It has not been studied for long-term improvement or how it stacks up against standard topical treatments.”
To illustrate the power of topical treatments, Waldorf shares how even a little goes a long way. “A year ago, at my gym, a low-maintenance guy in his 70s asked me what he could do about the wrinkles on his lower eyelids,” she says. “He blanked out when I mentioned machines and injectables. I then asked him what he usually does to his under-eye area. The answer? “Nothing.” So I recommended adding a basic daily moisturizer. He still tells me how many compliments he’s gotten, including from his dermatologist. Now, all of his male friends over 70 use Eucerin cream.”
Waldorf speculates that most people considering taking a supplement already use something like a moisturizer. So who would benefit from oral hyaluronic acid? People who aren’t getting hyaluronic acid from a nutritious diet (unlikely), or whose skin care routine isn’t enough, says Waldorf. You know as well as I do that “regular” and “sufficient” can mean a variety of things, from applying a moisturizer once a week to getting a daily HydraFacial (don’t do that).
But Waldorf has a point: “Realistic expectations are key. In terms of long-term and cost-effectiveness, a gentle soap-free cleanser, moisturizer, prescription retinoid, and sunscreen, with or without over-the-counter evidence-based anti-aging topicals (e.g., peptides and antioxidants), are more effective than supplements.” and For less money.”
Still not convinced? We haven’t even mentioned that it can be hard to tell what’s in your supplement bottle.
according to Recent Stories in The Washington PostIn the United States, companies Estimated 90,000 people Dietary supplements are Approximately a $50 billion industryAs a result, some experts say consumers who buy supplements can’t always be sure they’re getting what they pay for. Melatonin Research, Fish oil, Probiotics, Ginkgoand other supplements, have been found to often contain dosages and ingredients not listed on the label that are in the bottle.
In one The study was published in the journal Pediatric ResearchThe researchers tested 16 probiotic supplements and found that only one contained the specific strain of bacteria listed on the label.
In another studyResearchers tested 30 supplements that claimed to boost the immune system and found 17 to be “misbranded” — they either didn’t contain key ingredients listed on the label, such as vitamin B12, garlic extract, ginger root, and folic acid, or contained a variety of ingredients that weren’t listed.
For more information on supplements, click here General Report Jen Gunter, MD Vajenda. by the way, this This is my current favorite supplement. Moisturizer/Sunscreen I use it in the morning or when I’m out and about and need to reapply sunscreen. Nothing but good results!
It was first published on May 7th.
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