Are there any disadvantages to using antioxidants?
All the experts SELF spoke with agree that there really aren’t that many. Some antioxidants may be slightly more likely to cause irritation (itching, burning, redness in some skin tones) than others. But the class certainly isn’t famous for unpleasant side effects like peeling and dryness, as is the case with powerful ingredients like retinol and glycolic acid, notes Dr. Skotnicki.
The biggest potential pitfall is that antioxidant skin care products may not be as effective as they are advertised. Finding something that works, stays stable (meaning the antioxidant remains active and effective), and can penetrate deep enough to actually be effective, she says, isn’t always easy. points out. Gumilek added that the overall formulation of the product, the type and concentration of antioxidants, determines its effectiveness.2 Until then…
Best Antioxidants to Add to Your Skincare Routine
As a rule of thumb, having antioxidants is better than not having them, but there are good antioxidants worth looking for, and antioxidants that may be better suited to your particular skin type. There are some substances.
Vitamin C
It was a widely recommended top pick among all the experts SELF consulted. Dr. Skotnicki points out that while there is plenty of clinical data to support its effectiveness, that is not the case with many other antioxidants on the market. What makes vitamin C so unique? Not only does it fight hard against free radical damage, it also combats hyperpigmentation and aids in collagen production (which means it can smooth out fine lines and wrinkles). ), she says.3
A few caveats: Most of the clinical research on topical vitamin C is based on the most potent and pure version, L-ascorbic acid, which can be a bit irritating, especially for those with sensitive skin. Dr. Skotnikki points out. L-ascorbic acid is also water soluble and dissolves in water. Since skin cells are hydrophobic (repel water), this poses a problem, Dr. Rusak added. “So it should be formulated with an oily base, which acne-prone skin might not like,” she says.
L-ascorbic acid is considered the gold standard, but there are other forms of vitamin C worth considering. Dr. Gmyrek and Dr. Russak both refer to tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD). This is because it is more stable and tends to be better tolerated by people with sensitive skin. Other milder forms include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl palmitate. If your skin is prone to irritation, it might be worth looking into one of these alternative versions. (Find out exactly how to use vitamin C in your skincare routine here.)
niacinamide
You can also consider niacinamide or vitamin B3 if irritation is a concern. “It’s not as potent as vitamin C, but it’s well-tolerated and anti-inflammatory, so it’s also great for people with sensitive skin, rosacea, and eczema,” explains Dr. Rusak. In addition, it can help improve the skin’s barrier function, regulate oil production, and reduce redness and hyperpigmentation, says Dr. Gumilek.3 Niacinamide comes in both over-the-counter and prescription versions, and there’s plenty of advice on how to use it and what to look out for. (For reference, niacinamide is typically studied at concentrations between 2% and 10%. As previously reported by SELF, 5% is a good middle point. If no percentage is given, niacinamide The amide should be one of the first few components of niacinamide). label. )
Vitamin E
“Vitamin E (tocopherol) is known for its moisturizing properties and is highly soothing, making it beneficial for dry and sensitive skin types,” says Dr. Gumilek. Not only does it help the wound healing process and repair damage, but it also strengthens the skin’s natural moisture barrier and reduces inflammation, she added.Four Along with ferulic acid, the next leading antioxidant on our list, you probably wouldn’t expect vitamin E to be the sole star of your skin care routine. Rather, it is often combined with vitamin C (the two work synergistically, and vitamin E actually helps counter the stimulating effects of L-ascorbic acid) and other antioxidants. This is because, according to dermatologists we spoke to, it works well with most antioxidants. To.
ferulic acid
As mentioned above, ferulic acid is commonly used in combination with vitamin C (and/or vitamin E) in serums and other skin care products. That’s because it helps create a more acidic environment that stabilizes vitamin C, allowing it to stay strong and active longer, says Dr. Skotnikki. While still powerful on its own, it also works in harmony with other antioxidants, such as vitamin E, adds Dr. Gumilek.Four FYI: Look for “ferulic acid” on the ingredient label.
Polyphenol
It is a collective term for various plant-based antioxidants. “Given that plants have had to protect themselves from the sun for billions of years, it makes sense that they are rich in antioxidants,” says Dr. Skotnikki. Polyphenols are generally good for all skin types, and they’re likely to be found in organic or “natural” products, notes Dr Russac. Common ones worth looking for include green and white tea extracts (the former is usually listed as his EGCG on ingredient labels), lycopene (found in red and pink fruits such as watermelon), There are pomegranate extract, sea buckthorn and others.
